A Different Georgia Beyond the Tourist Trail#
There are dozens of guides about Tbilisi and Batumi. Narikala Fortress, Rustaveli Avenue, the Coastal Boulevard — you already know these. In this article I want to describe a different Georgia: places most people skip, topics that are misunderstood, and where to go for a truly local experience.
A guide for both Tbilisi and Batumi, both for first-timers and those who want to return.
TBILISI: What You Haven’t Seen#
1. Chugureti Neighborhood — Tbilisi’s Brooklyn#
Not much frequented by tourists, on the other side of the city. You come across it when you cross the Kura River and head east. Founded by German settlers in the 1820s — it was referred to as “Neu Tiflis” (New Tbilisi). Today it’s the city’s most creative and alternative district. Walls are covered in street art, small cafés and gastropubs line the streets.
Fabrika: A creative hub converted from an old industrial space. Cafés, vintage shops, event spaces. A great pit stop for both local and foreign travelers.
2. Gabriadze Clock Tower — Just Looking Isn’t Enough#
In the old city, near Meidan Square, there’s a crooked tower. Most visitors just take a photo and walk on. But every hour the tower comes to life: a bell rings on the upper floor, two puppets start talking in the middle section. It’s worth being there on the hour to watch this little show.
The Puppet Theatre next to it is also worth seeing — an impressive structure even from the outside.
3. Sulfur Baths (Abanotubani) — Don’t Just Photograph, Go Inside#
The red-domed baths are one of Tbilisi’s most iconic sights. But most travelers photograph from outside and move on. Yet actually going inside and experiencing a sulfur bath in a private room is something else entirely.
Healing mineral waters, historic atmosphere. Renting a private room and spending 1–2 hours costs 30–60 GEL per person. It’s calmer in the early morning hours.
4. Take the Cable Car Up to Narikala Fortress#
Everyone climbs up the hill to the fortress on foot. But the cable car departing from Rike Park takes you up to the fortress in just 2 minutes. Both scenic and not tiring. On the way down, you can exit through the Abanotubani direction and leave through the baths neighborhood — a lovely route.
Best visiting time: Early morning or sunset. At noon it’s both very hot and crowded.
5. Botanical Garden Waterfall — Escape from the Crowds#
Right behind Narikala, mentioned as a brief note in most guides. The walking path arranged with wooden platforms transports you to a completely different world right in the middle of the city. Small waterfall, cool air, almost no tourists. Can be added to a Narikala visit, an extra 30–45 minutes.
6. Pushkin Street#
A narrow street where Italian, Russian and Georgian architecture intermingle. Facades are carved, balconies are wooden, colors are faded but beautiful. One of old Tbilisi’s most photogenic streets but it doesn’t appear on most tourist maps.
7. Ananuri Castle — On the Road from Tbilisi to Kazbegi#
If you’re going from Tbilisi to Kazbegi, stop along the way: 72 km from Tbilisi, on the banks of the emerald green Aragvi River is Ananuri Castle. Actually two separate fortresses merged together. Inside are two churches. Entrance is free. On the UNESCO Tentative World Heritage list.
BATUMI: What You Haven’t Seen#
8. Botanical Garden — The Place Most People Leave Halfway#
Batumi Botanical Garden is very large and very rich. But the vast majority of visitors tour the sections near the entrance and leave. Seeing the entire garden can genuinely take up your whole day — but climbing to the hills with sea views, seeing plants from different climate zones is worth it.
Tip: Enter early, climb to the highest points before the midday sun.
9. Sarp Border Crossing Notes#
For those coming by road: the Turkish side control at Sarp Border Gate sometimes takes longer than the Georgian side. No need for a new ID (with chip) passport — ID card is sufficient. As of 2026, having travel insurance has become mandatory.
10. Local Cafés Instead of the Main Tourist Boulevard#
Batumi’s tourist seafront is everywhere. But a few streets inside you’ll find both more affordable and more authentic cafés and restaurants. Those looking for Turkish restaurants and Turkish menus can find them very easily — there are quite a few places opened by Turkish entrepreneurs.
11. Nurigeli Lake#
A small lake inside May 6th Park. A place with a panoramic view of the city from above, almost never crowded. You can skip it if you want, but if you have time and are overwhelmed by the seafront crowds, it’s a calm alternative.
BETWEEN TBILISI AND BATUMI: The Best Route#
Most travelers fly in and fly out. But traveling between Tbilisi and Batumi by train is a different experience.
| Option | Duration | Cost | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Night train (standard) | ~5 hours | 20–40 GEL | Sleeping carriage available |
| Day train (express) | ~5 hours | 25–50 GEL | Beautiful scenery |
| Minibus (marshrutka) | ~5 hours | 20 GEL | Cheap but tiring |
| Car rental | ~4.5 hours | 50–100 USD/day | Ideal for stops along the way |
Train tickets: Can be bought online from Georgia Railways’ official website. Can fill up quickly on summer weekends and holidays — early reservation is essential.
KAZBEGI: Day Trip or Overnight Stay?#
Going to Tbilisi without even glancing at Kazbegi is a big loss. About 150 km north of Tbilisi, in the heart of the Caucasus Mountains.
Day trip: Possible but tiring. Need to leave early morning and return in the evening.
1 overnight: Much better. You see Gergeti Church at sunset and early morning.
Transport: Minibuses (marshrutka) depart from Tbilisi Didube bus station, ~3 hours, very affordable. But definitely plan ahead for the return.
Practical and Current Information (2026–2026)#
Entry document: Turkish citizens can enter Georgia with a chipped ID card. As of 2026, travel insurance is mandatory.
Money: Georgian Lari (GEL). 1 GEL ≈ 13–14 TL (March 2025). City taxis (Bolt) are very cheap — from one end of the city to the other for 5 GEL.
Transport app: Bolt works like Georgia’s version of Uber. Very widespread in Tbilisi. Definitely negotiate before getting in a regular taxi.
Internet: Wi-Fi in Tbilisi is fast and widespread. Getting a SIM card is also very cheap.
Quick Don’t-Miss List#
| Tbilisi | Batumi |
|---|---|
| ✅ Chugureti neighborhood cafés | ✅ Botanical Garden hilltops |
| ✅ Sulfur bath (must go inside) | ✅ Side streets instead of seafront |
| ✅ Gabriadze Clock Tower (watch on the hour) | ✅ Nurigeli Lake view |
| ✅ Botanical Garden waterfall | ✅ Train journey to Tbilisi |
| ✅ Cable car to Narikala | ✅ Local prices at Turkish cafés |
| ✅ Pushkin Street | — |
| ✅ Fabrika creative hub | — |
Frequently Asked Questions#
How is security in Tbilisi? Generally very safe. Even at night you can walk around the city comfortably.
How many days to see Tbilisi and Batumi? Ideally 7–10 days together. Tbilisi 3–4 days, Batumi 2–3 days. If Kazbegi is added, +2 days.
Is Georgia expensive? For accommodation and food, it can no longer be considered cheaper than Turkey. But compared to Western Europe it’s still affordable. Bolt taxis, street food and marshrutkas are genuinely cheap.
Which is the best neighborhood in Tbilisi? To stay: Old Town (Old Tbilisi) or around Rustaveli. To explore: Chugureti. For food: Marjanishvili.
